For many years I have heard people talk about the Kimberley's not really knowing where it was or where it started and finished. I still don't. I think roughly it's just a big parcel of land between Broome and Darwin. I don't think boundaries really matter as it is spectacular and where do you draw the boundary? It's plenty of nothingness; but absolutely heaps of 'amazingness.' Due to the uncertainty of the Gibb River Road's condition following recent rainfalls we travelled to Fitzroy Crossing via the Great Northern Highway. We left Derby late in the afternoon following our tour of the Horizontal Falls knowing we would need an exception to our rule 'to be off the road before dusk'. We ended up driving the last hour in the dark and it was exhausting. Dropping down to about 70km per hour with our eyes scanning the sides of the road watching out for numerous wild animals including kangaroos, emus, cows and wild pigs. They were everywhere and with our stopping power dramatically reduced due to the caravan on the back it was hard work. We vowed not to do it again; but probably will. After the exhausting drive at night (and typical female behaviour) the moment I was told I couldn't drink; I desperately wanted one. Fitzroy Crossing is a 'dry' area.
The Boab Tree is unique to the Kimberely's and are beautifully scattered along its horizon. There's something peaceful about them and we never tire of pointing them out along our journey. The kids think they look like an upside down tree. They can survive fire and flood due to their ability to capture water but often die due to lightening strikes. They are hollow inside and were often used to house prisoners during transportation back in the olden days!
With a population of just over 1,100, about 80% of Fitzroy Crossing's population is indigenous. In 2007 a campaign by the local indigenous community resulted in a restriction of alcohol sales. Some media reports suggest that the ban has been effective with a reduction of hospital admissions, domestic violence reports and an increase in school admissions. However anecdotal evidence - speaking to the locals - suggests there is now a large black market and an increase in prostitution (getting alcohol in return for services). In addition, road accidents of young males have increased with many driving the 700km round trip to Kununurra just to buy alcohol. We witnessed two things in the days we were there.... Firstly, there didn't seem to be as many (or any) inebriated aborignals walking the streets. So to me that was a good sign. Secondly, the caravan park we stayed at stipulated that we were not allowed to drink in our caravan at the park (he he - luckily I picked up a trick I learnt from my sister - drinking wine out of a coffee cup!!) however you could drink on their premises; drinking their alcohol and if you were staying in their motel you could purchase their alcohol (with limitations) and take it back to the room. I may be a sceptic but it seems these rules benefit the venue. We stayed at the Fitzroy Crossing Caravan Park which was across the river and a little out of town and away from crime however it was emphasised to lock up everything particularly our esky. Just the week prior, a caravan was broken into and they had cut through the mesh windows to get in. It was likely they were looking for alcohol.
Winjana Gorge - we found our first freshwater crocodiles of our trip.
The following day we went to Winjana Gorge (7/10) which is 145km from Fitzroy Crossing on a 4WD-only road. The Gorge was a 7km easy return walk and was our first up-close experience with freshwater crocodiles. There were literally hundreds of them littered on the river banks. The advice from locals that if they swim away from you - they are freshwater crocs; if they swim towards you - they are saltwater crocs and you are stuffed. The kids (ok, I really mean me...) were initially scared but by the end of the walk we were nearly stepping over them; singing songs to get back to the car.
Winjana Gorge
After Winjana Gorge we travelled to Tunnel Creek. Our indigenous tour guide did not turn up to meet us so we ended up tackling the 750meter dark tunnel full of bats and crocs on our own. Water shoes and torches were a must. It was a great walk and once again was an example of the diversity of activities we have experienced while travelling. Apparently Tunnel Creek was a hideout from police for the indigenous many years ago and a indigenous police tracker who turned against the police (or the other way around; I sometimes get confused with the small details...) was captured and killed here.
Walking through Tunnel Creek I still I'm not sure what those piercing orange eyes in the dark that were staring back at me.
The crew in Tunnel Creek. We turned our head torches around for the photo. Except for Tom - he wore his backwards all the way?!
The following morning (after another night with no beer) we got up early to do the 8am Geikie Gorge boat tour. The boat tour is the best (and really only) way to experience Geikie Gorge. There is an 8am and 2pm tour. They say the afternoon tour is the best to get the true colors of the Gorge but we were keen to get on the road so did the morning one. Geikie Gorge is apparently named after an English geologist (now wouldn't he be a fun guy!!) who never ever landed on Australian soil. There is community pressure to change the name to reflect our indigenous ancestors. Makes perfect sense to me!
Geikie Gorge
Once again the Fitzroy River was not the largest river in size but was in volume of water it has a catchment of about 90,000 square kilometres. The amount of water it has that runs through it is amazing. It had enough flow through it to fill the Sydney Harbour in 17 minutes. You can see from the pictures how high the tide rises in the wet season (up to the dark parts). But can be up to 12 metres higher.
The crew on the boat cruise - not sure why but we are always herded to the back row. This time of the year there are not many families but rather lots of grey nomads.
Once again, there were many friendly crocs in the Gorge. Female crocs swim away when you get close; males stay. This photo below was obviously a male as he was happy to smile at the camera.
Smile for the camera. What an arrogant git. He looks so smug, smiling to himself on a rock.
We then travelled to Bungle Bungles or Purnululu National Park (another example of changing the name to its true heritage) . The World Heritage listed park's main feature is the Bungle Bungle Range described as black-banded beehive shaped cones. The Park has two campgrounds but you are unable to take a caravan in there so we stayed at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park (not part of the National park) at the gateway of the Park and then got up early (6:30am) to drive into the Park and spent the day exploring. The road was pretty corragated and a couple of little water crossings. It took about 90minutes to get to the entrance of the Park so it was pretty tough going but manageable. One of my most favourite things at the park was the showers with no roof. For some reason, there is nothing better than having a shower under the stars!
They say the best way to experience the Bungle Bungle's is by air. They cover such a vast area of land that makes sense. We were planning to do a helicopter ride but ran out of time. It is one of my regrets. Oh well, next time (I say that heaps).
The Bungle Bungles
Our first stop was Cathedral Gorge (7/10) it wasn't a difficult walk - took us about half an hour. At the end of the walk we arrived at an open cave with shallow pool of water. It wasn't really a swimming hole but a great place according to my kids to skim rocks. The acoustics were amazing and it known as a popular place to 'belt out a tune'. I was keen to sing a bit of Dancing Queen but the kids told me that would be "soooo embarrassing."
Skimming rocks on Cathedral Gorge
Cathedral Gorge
We then drove about 45 minutes to Echidna Chasm (8/10). I really liked Echidna Chasm because it was so different and featured narrow tunnels with huge walls (that's not the technical term they use in their brochures.) Once again it was an easy walk although it was on pebbles with little shade.
A tiger lost in EchidnaChasm
After Purnululu National Park we travelled to the well-known station El Questro (9/10). We loved loved loved El Questro. It's a working cattle station with a million hectares of cattle ground. It's on a long term lease from the Government and the land is then contracted out via pastoral leases. The new owner - who has just taken it over - is apparently going to 'rest' the land for 12 months and will receive a little payment from the Government to do so. But amongst the cattle crazing land is the El Questro Campground. It may be a little commercialised but it had an amazing bar, with a singalong around the camp fire at night and the most amazing gorges and walks.
One of the three river crossings into El Questro (this one wasn't the worst). Although nerve wracking it was a little cool. Our 200 series was a real trooper and didn't let us down.
The first day we walked to Emma Gorge (Emma Gorge also has accommodation; similar to El Questro but on a smaller scale). Emma Gorge was a bit of a tougher, longer walk. It took us about an hour each way and there was a bit of rambling over rocks. The 40-degree temperature and the sighting of a snake made it even more challenging. But once again the end was spectacular and being able to enjoy a swim at the end makes it so worth it.
Walking to Emma's Gorge. It was hot and we had regular stops to dip our heads in the water.
We play a number of games during our walks but our favourite would have to be the alphabet game where we pick a subject and go through the alphabet. We sometimes also practice our times tables (hope the kids' teachers are reading this) and sometimes we sing. We all stumble and fall at times but it is so much fun.
One of the pool's in Emma Gorge.
Emma's Gorge - the swim at the end makes the walk so worth it.
Emma's Gorge.
The following day, Nick, Bella and I did a two-hour trail horse ride leaving at 7am in the morning. It was great to see the scenery from a different perspective.
The man from snowy river.... Sorry I meant Nick.
The riding group, under a Boab.
After our trail ride we rested our weary bodies in the hot springs at Zebeddee Falls. They were amazing until Matt kept dipping my head under the water - he was told apparently that the water had secret powers and could make you look younger! For those that know me know that I love my bath and is probably one of the things I have missed the most. Matt struggled to get me out and besides the frogs it felt just like home (and I was a little home sick).
A warm bath....
The following day we walked to El Questro Gorge which was again about an hour walk there and an hour return. It was a bit more difficult but shady. You can't get it all. For some reason I was a bit stumbly and I got cuts, scratches and bruises all over me. But after a long walk we were rewarded with the most amazing water hole.
El Questro Gorge
The walk to El Questro Gorge
The photo before the snake. Back in happier days.
We had the water hole all to ourselves and were having an amazing time until a snake slithered past us..... It was the end of our relaxing swim.
The best part about El Questro was catching up with some Ballarat friends. They were doing a similar trip but went the other way so we traded notes and caught up. It was so nice to see them. Ironically our neighbours (not the Hodges) were also from Ballarat so it made me less homesick.
The Ballarat clan - so good to see them. But bloody hell; look at how many kids they have!!!
It was sad to say goodbye to El Questro and there was plenty more walks that we would've liked to do but we didn't have time. It was one of those moments that we wished we had another month or two....
Happy Travels
The Stevens'
#makingmemories