Kings Canyon, Uluru and Kata Tjunta

Before you start reading this blog I must apologise for the Ayres Rock photo spam. And I've only posted a few of what I have taken but I couldn't help it. This bit (a big bit) of rock in the middle of nowhere has such a magnetic attraction. i just couldn't stop looking at it. 

And I do know of some people who on their way to Uluru took photos of Mount Franklin thinking that was Uluru. What dopes....  

But before we get to Uluru we drove to Kings Canyon. It was a hard drive as we couldn't take the short cut (which was xxxkm shorter) but it was too rough and you can't take a caravan. Man, I was so tempted. I was tempted to risk it; Matt however wanted to take the safer, conservative approach.  

Y.  

We arrived at Kings Canyon with the dingoes roaming the caravan park. They seemed friendly enough but did eat one of my Tupperware containers (will that be covered under their lifetime guarantee?? Dingo proof) that was full of m and m's. That afternoon we arrived we went and did the Kings Creek walk (2km return), we went to sunset drinks and that night after dinner we walked over to the bar to listen to a few songs.  

The next morning we got up early and left by 7am to do the Kings Canyon rim walk. It's a 3-4, 6km walk. On hot days the walk closes by 8am. I can u der stand why. There is no shelter and you are open to all elements - wind and sun. The walk was fantastic (9/10) actually it was my most favourite walk that didn't finish with a water hole. It took us 2:15mins and the last few km we stormed it home. There were parts where you didn't want to look down. The first part was pretty tough and steep and while the remainder was up and down it was relatively easy.

The next morning we got up early and left by 7am to do the Kings Canyon rim walk. It's a 3-4, 6km walk. On hot days the walk closes by 8am. I can u der stand why. There is no shelter and you are open to all elements - wind and sun. The walk was fantastic (9/10) actually it was my most favourite walk that didn't finish with a water hole. It took us 2:15mins and the last few km we stormed it home. There were parts where you didn't want to look down. The first part was pretty tough and steep and while the remainder was up and down it was relatively easy.

Mataranka, Devils Marbles and Alice Springs

We left Katherine Gorge for the short drive (102km) to Mataranka Springs. I was so excited about getting to Mataranka as I was going to have the closest thing I could get to a bath. (I am sooo missing my bath!). We only stayed one night which is probably enough. Besides the hot springs there is not much in Mataranka. The only entertainment was watching mum get approached by the police after she left the bottle shop with a bottle of wine (or three). She was questioned on where she was planning on drinking it and was requested to show her ID. The kids started to panic after Matt told them she would likely go to jail..... We went to Mataranka Springs first which is a little bit more commercialised and then went to Bitter Springs and floated downstream with our noodles. They were pretty good; but not as good as my bath. 

Mataranka Springs - warmer than normal. Just needed candles and some quiet music... 

Mataranka Springs.  

We then travelled through Tennant Creek (worth seeing; but not to stay) and arrived at the free park at Devils Marbles which wasn't really free but cost us only $11.50 for the night. It was a bargain considering the views. The stars in the night sky were absolutely amazing and I had a sleepless night choosing to keep the windows open and staring into the night sky. With the dingoes howling throughout the night; it made for a majestic experience - it was too good to sleep!!

After a day in the car; the kids spent hours playing 'ball' (any ball - soccer, netball, football). It was one of those moments that I sat and watched; lost in the beauty!  

Beautiful in so many ways! 

Devil's Marbles - or Devil's Balls as Tom calls them.......  

It was a good free park and had a drop toilet. But it was busy. We arrived at about 4ish and I think we secured the last site. There were quite a number of vans who arrived after us that had to find someone else. Particularly during the high season, I suggest you get there early.   

An early morning toilet run (behind the bushes) with these two 'besties.'  There's not a better view to wake up to. 

We left Devils Marbles and finally arrived in Alice Springs. We stayed at the MacDonnell Ranges Big 4 (8/10). it was a great park with a small water slide which surprisingly the kids absolutely loved! (I wanted to go exploring; they just wanted to hang at the water slide!)

And we voted it to have the best shower ever by meeting most of our criteria. For the Stevens Family a good shower needs:

- Good shower head (none of these water-saving heads; we like the old fashioned ones)

- Good ventilation. Some of the showers have no ventilation and  in the muggy conditions you couldn't actually breath in the shower let alone shower in the shower

- Four hooks. Super bonus. Three is good; four is very uncommon but the best. One for towel; one for old clothes; one for new clothes and one for toilet bag

- Good drainage. There's something a little icky about having your neighbours water flow into your shower

- No shower curtain. We don't like shower 'germ-collecting' curtains or rubber floor mats 

And to top it off we like good lighting, no frogs and the radio (that means that Bella doesn't have to cough while going to the toilet so people can't hear her.)

Alice Springs was exactly like I had imagined and had a real desert feel. And for me, the best aboriginal artwork we had seen so far. So I bought four pieces. I spent a whole day wondering through the galleries. I have a real love for indigenous artwork and am a great believer that when you see a piece that grabs your attention; that's your piece. It is love at first sight. I don't know what attracts me to certain artworks but I love a story and like to find a similarity to my own life. I just need to find some more wall space at home...... 

Footy practice. Getting ready for the season at Ti Tree Footy Oval. Not quite like the green, wet and muddy conditions we are used to.  

We did pull the kids away from the slide to tour the West MacDonnell Ranges and did three walks - Ormiston Gorge, Ellery Creek Bighole and Standley Chasm. It was a great day and easily done in a day from Alice Springs. The walks were all pretty easy although it was  fair walk up to the lookout at Ormiston Gorge (but well worth it).

Standley Chasm - an easy 2km walk (or run for the kids...)

Ellery Creek 

Ormiston Gorge.  

The lookout at Ormiston Gorge...spectacular!

We are now off to Kings Canyon, Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) and Uluru (Ayers Rock) - can't wait to see the big rock.  

Happy travelling

Stevens Family

#makingmemories  

Exploring NT - Darwin, Litchfield and Kakadu

It was great to get to Darwin so we could have a rest. When you go hard, like we tend to do, it seems every three to four weeks we all fall in a hole and need a few days were we sleep in, swim and don't do much. And Darwin seemed like a pretty good place to do not much. It was also exciting to reach Darwin as mum was coming to meet us (and spend some time travelling from Darwin to Uluru). I'm not sure when she agreed to tour with us that she realised she would be either in the back of a van or the back of a car with four (sometimes feral) children.....

But before arriving in Darwin we had a stopover in Katherine.  We didn't plan on doing much other than visit the Tourist Information Centre to gain an insight into Kakadu National Park and what we could do in Katherine on our return visit in a week or so.

However as we were leaving the Information Centre the Katherine Outback Experience (9.5/10) brochure caught our eye and thought it wouldn't be bad to spend a night learning more about the outback...Katherine style. And what an experience it was.  I think it was so enjoyable because it was so not expected. But it (he) was hilarious. It is operated by Tom Curtain and his lovely girlfriend and it's a sort of musical, horse riding, animal tricks type of show.

Tom Curtain - he was such an entertainer just by being himself. 

In Darwin we stayed at FreeSpirit Caravan Park (8/10) which was great. It had a fantastic pool with an attached bar/bistro - always a bonus. It's rather therapeutic sipping on a cocktail while watching the kids swim. The weather was still 'unseasonable' hot according to the locals. And I took the opportunity to catch up on my washing although it was $5 per load (the most expensive one so far). I was becoming one of those mothers that would fold a dirty T-shirt and say: "you'll get another day out of that." While in Darwin we spent a bit of time at the Waterfront playing in the wave pool and the man-made beach, drinking coffee (which it felt like I hadn't had one for weeks)  and trying out the inflatable world out the middle of the water..... My advice would be to any female to wear shorts. There is nothing attractive about a 40year old in bathers hitching her leg over or skidding along (or both at the same time) an inflatable wall or log (or both at the same time.)

Inflatable World  (otherwise know as wedgie-world) 

We also went to the Darwin Museum which housed a section on Cyclone Tracy and the Bombing of Darwin Museum - I am not sure words can truly describe how we felt at both places. They are probably two of the most significant events in Australia's history and both occurred in Darwin. The Cyclone Tracey Museum was free and the WWII bombings had a relatively small fee attached. 

On Christmas Eve 1974, Cyclone Tracy, a tropical cyclone, devastated the city of Darwin. It is the most compact cyclone or equivalent-strengthe hurricane on record in the Australian Basin.  It was quite mind blowing to see the impact it had on the city.  

The bombing of Darwin, also known as the Battle of Darwin, on 19 February 1942 was the largest single attack ever mounted by a foreign power on Australia.

I don't think I realised how devastating they both were. 

We also did the fish feeding, wandered through the art galleries and had the perfect trifecta night in that everyone was happy :). We went to a nice pub at the Waterfront - the football was on for the big boys, there was live music for Bella and I and Tom had keno; his favourite game. (but before you ring human services we don't actually allow him to place monetary bets).

Our perfect night - music, footy and keno.  

We spent a day at Litchfield National Park (9/10). We were initially going to go and stay for a night but decided to remain in Darwin and travel out for the day. We are glad we did. If we had more time (we say this 100s a times per day) we would've but we found we were able to extensively explore Litchfield National Park in a day and it is really nice not to have to worry about the caravan attached. 

Berry Springs - our morning shower (although it's a little odd that Matt is showering with his Mother-in-law

At Litchfield National Park we went to Berry Springs for our morning shower. There are three pools to choose from and we swam in all three. We had it practically to ourselves so it was a great way to start the day. We then went to Florence Falls and Wangi Falls. Both were great and easy to access (compared to our previous treks). This is a great park to do if you are an elderly couple or have young kids. 

About to jump into Wangi Falls - the water was beautiful  

Florence Falls  

We returned home and had our last supper with are travelling companions the Neagles. We were very well behaved this time and did not get told off by the neighbours :) We miss them already. 

On our way to Kakadu National Park (8/10) we stopped at the obligatory jumping crocs tour - Spectacular Crocs (the original). It's a good 'show' to see; those salties are massive creatures. People had said to us that the locals were not too impressed about the jumping crocs show as it teaches crocs to jump and it's ok when it's behind the safety of the tour boat but not when you are in a tinny fishing for Barramundi. The tour was delayed for a few minutes while they caught the two snakes that had crept onto the boat during the night. So I spent one eye on the crocodiles and one eye scanning the boat. If only I knew then what was to come in Kakadu with wild animals.... 

Henry the jumping croc..... He tried to catch me but I was too fast (they can travel 40km/hour underwater)  

Kakadu has been on my list of  things to do for some years and I was a little disappointed in that it didn't have the spectactular scenery that I had envisaged or that we had seen at other parts of Australia. In addition, the walking tracks and some of the tourist attractions - particular the smaller ones - were poorly marked and explained. We stayed at Cooinda Lodge which is sort of in the centre of the Park so had good access to most things. It also had a bar that made good coffee, a great swimming pool and cane toads. Did I say cane toads??? We had seen some in Lake Argyle but not in the vast amount that were in Kakadu. I was initially a little freaked out but by the end I was ignorant to the crunching sounds under my feet as I walked.  

On the first sleepless night, I quickly discovered we were in the land of wild animals and mosquitos (mosquitos and more mosquitoes). After a while I got used to the clicking of the cane toads and the howling of the dingos but I woke with a fright (and I woke Matt too) at the sound of a wild pig outside my window. Just when I thought I wouldn't go back to sleep I was awoken by a herd of wild horses that had surrounded our caravan. Not that I thought they would enter the caravan but I thought they would jump on the tent that Nick was sleeping in..... I woke Matt and told him he had to do something. He Reluctantly crept out and put an outdoor chair at the door of the tent?! Not sure whether he thought anything wild would take a seat before eating our child in the tent... Needless to say, Nick a typical teenager slept through the circus while I lay awake for the night and watched the door of his tent. 

So once daylight hit and we had a bit of a laugh I was sort of ok about the wild horses and pigs but once again I was freaked out when there was a girl in reception waiting for an ambulance because she had been bitten by a snake.

So we were encouraged by the Park Rangers to embrace Kakadu but I was embracing it ok from the inside of my caravan.... did I mention mosquitos?? 

Pitt stop.... I think they keep each other going with mum thinking: if a 6yo can do it; I can.  

We toured the main town of Jabiru (it didn't take long) and then watched the sunset at Ubirr. It was amazing giving you a 180 degree view of Kakadu. I was expecting more jungle-type vegetation however it was more baron - but a very pretty baron. It was about a 30 minute walk with the last 10minutes quite challenging. But the view was spectacular and it was a perfect way to end another day. 

Ubirr - so tranquil and the serenity...... We were talking about footy! 

Watching the sunset. What an amazing way to finish the day.  

The following morning we did a walking tour with a fantastic Park Ranger - Christian at Nourlangie (check him out if you ever go to Kakadu). He is the first person who has provided me a with an honest explanation of the indigenous culture. He really tried to explain the complex communities in which the indigenous communities operate. (i.e.: who can marry/look at who, brothers/sisters). I could've listened to him for hours but after 90 minutes the kids were getting a bit tetchy so we moved on. 

We then went to Maguk which was about 50km from Cooinda Lodge. It was a two-hour return walk with an amazing waterfall at the end.

Maguk - Bella diving head first (through a school of fish)

That night we did the sunset yellow water cruise. It was good but it was probably focused a little bit too much on birds. And as Will said half an hour into the tour - "I'm hungry and I don't even like birds." Another lesson I have learnt is how dorky bird watches are..... I found them more entertaining to watch than the birds with their high pants, binoculars and bird encyclopedias.... they are one crazy breed.  

yellow waters cruise. I had to take a photo of a bird. One guy took 100 photos of just one bird! 

The sunset on the yellow waters cruise.  

On the way out of Kakudu (heading towards Alice Springs) we went to Gunlom which once again was another two-hour return, steep walk to an amazing waterfall and swimming hole. The most entertaining adventure of the day however was watching my 'so not a mechanic' husband help two asian tourists whose car had broken down. They were blocking our path and we were on a tight timeframe. So I watched Matt storm out of the car fill their overheated radiator with their drinking water. The car started; he turned them around and told them to find a tree and read a book and wait for it to cool. Needless to say we saw the broken down car on the side of the road about 50km down the road on our way out of the Park. For those concerned for the safety of the two girls...they weren't with the car so we presume they got a lift to Jabiru...or that's what we are hoping.

Gunlon Falls - another big hike and swim.  

36 degrees plus high humidity meant we were all in for a dip.  

Stop the press.... A new fashion trend. Runners + skirt = skunners.  

Kakadu - or Kathmandu as Tom calls it - covers nearly 20,000 kilometres so the distance between tourist attractions is vast. I wish we had more time (again). Another night would have been great. Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls were still closed from the wet season so we will have to see that next time too. 

We then travelled to Edith Falls. There was a bottom pool (which we left Nana and the two younger boys at) while the others strided to the top pool. Once again it was amazing and we ran into another 'Ballaratarian.' We seemed to have done lots of walking and waterhole swimming on the last leg of our holiday. It's not for everyone but it is what we like to do. We never seem to tire of them because each one is so unique and the reward is a swim after a mostly challenging hike. 

Edith falls  

We arrived later in the day at Nitmiluk National Park (otherwise known as Katherine Gorge) just in time for a splash and relax in the pool! We got up the next morning and did a 7am boat cruise on Katherine Gorge. That was the best way, and only way other than by helicopter, to experience Katherine Gorge. There was something so peaceful and majestic about Katherine Gorge - I can't quite describe it but I had a real connection to the land (sounds weird; I know....)

Katherine Gorge.  

Katherine Gorge.  

We are on our way to Matauranka and Bitter Springs and we are looking forward to relaxing our aching bodies in the thermal springs. 

Happy travels

Stevens Family x

#makingmemories

The Kimberley's - Kununurra and Lake Argyle

We have continued our journey in the Kimberley's. You could spend such a long time touring the Kimberley's...... We were fortunate enough to arrive in Kununurra for the Kimberley Moon Festival so we booked into Kimberleyland Caravan Park (like Disneyland; but in the Kimberley's) for four nights and also bought tickets for a few events. On the Friday I did a tour of the Pink Argyle Diamond Mine combining my two loves of diamonds and mining. The Pink Argyle Diamond Mine is the second biggest producer of pink diamonds. It's a huge operation but still only produces about a 3/4 full champagne glass of pink diamonds each year.  With a pink diamond costing up to 12million dollars (per diamond). It was no surprise that security was intense. While on site; if I dropped anything such as a tissue, fingernail or even fluff - I was not allowed to pick it up but rather call security to do so. The employees were allowed to bring in their lunch but not allowed to take anything home (no leftovers; not even a lunch box). The staff that sorted through the diamonds had a security guard with them at all times with the security guards rotated every couple of days (so they were not able to build a relationship....)

The other interesting element was the relationship with the company and the indigenous landowners. Our guide explained that when the initial agreement was made with a couple of the male elders it was agreed to pay the indigenous owners around $60k per year in lease payments. They were paid in cash and reading through the lines; it didn't go well. However when the contract needed to be renewed in 2001 the female elders of the communities negotiated the new deal and now the owners get $2m paid each finanical year. 50% is invested into future generations and the other 50% is invested into new businesses, education and support services. The tourist guide for example, owns the business that operates the visitor tours. He loaned $50k off the community (but he had to pay it back) to build his business. He said the community learnt the lesson (the hard way) that it doesn't work if people are given cash. I know that I just explained it in simple terms and it is likely to be a bit more complicated but I am not suprised that it was the women that made the effective deal!! 

Looking for pink diamonds.... 

We also went to a Corroboree which was great. It included dinner that consisted of some type of meat (apparently beef; I think it was buffalo) that was cooked underground and damper. It was entertaining watching the kids try to gnaw into the meat (to no avail). It would've been difficult to chew through it with a chainsaw let only Tom's jaw with limited teeth.... Unfortunately none of us succeeded. The dogs meandering through the crowd left with full stomachs that night. 

The following night we went to an open-air concert with a list of singers included Troy Casser-Daly and   Bernard Fanning. It was such a great night - best concert I have been to under a full moon. 

So we loved Kununurra - not sure if there was much to see if wasn't for the festival. Once again alcohol restrictions were imposed and every purchaser needed proof of ID (that was scanned) for purchase. We were also told by a local to get our alcohol on the Friday as the police were considering closing all bottle shops the following day due to an indigenous funeral. 

On the last night we went to a local football match. The boys loved it (and so did I) with the atmosphere electric. Nick got approached from a local girl to "go out with him".... Very cute.  

We left Kununnura for Lake Argyle which was about 150km away... 

The infinity pool at Lake Argyle and yes he had his hand on my ar*e!

Lake Argyle is a massive body of water and Austalia's largest freshwater lake. Lake Argyle has a service area of 1000 square kilometres and a shoreline stretching 9000kilometres.  

Live entertainment each night at the caravan park - a perfect backdrop.  

The infinity pool at Lake Argyle won an award as being one of the "most sexiest" pools. Not really sure what makes a pool sexy and more so whether I would promote that (wouldn't it just encourage misbehaviour in the pool??). But god damn it was good (not really sexy but we did have four children and it was full of grey nomads) 

Trying to look sexy at the sexist pool in Australia.  

The following night we did the Sunset Cruise on Lake Argyle. It was super (8/10) and the tour guides were fantastic. So relaxed with the kids. Very informative and at the completion of the night they allowed us to swim with 30,000 freshwater crocodiles while they threw us beers...... And I'm sorry to brag but my husband was the first to jump off the top of the boat and 'mark' his can of beer...As a back man I thought he might have punched it away!!! They then preceded to send out a floating platter of nibbles while we watched the sun set for another day. 

Beer, nibbles and 30,000 crocodiles.  

So how did they build Lake Argyle? When I heard it was man-made I imagined hundreds of people digging with shovels. And while a dam engineer will most likely scoff at my explanation I think all they did was build  300metre really strong dam wall that keeps all the water in.  

Our last night in WA

The following day, after seven or so weeks we left Western Australia - it was so bloody good to us and we were a little sad to leave it... West Australia is the most amazing space of land; not only in size (it is friggen huge....) but what it has to offer. I had a friend that moved to WA for 12months and is still there 15 years later. I can see why. It is a real tourist, holiday state. It felt right that we crossed the border with our new friends and travelling companions - the Neagles... 

Bye bye Western Australia #ilovewa. Please note: Matt's in NT and I'm in WA. 

So watch out Northern Territory... Here we come! 

Happy travelling 

The Stevens'

#making memories 

The Kimberley's - Fitzroy Crossing, Bungle Bungles and El Questro

For many years I have heard people talk about the Kimberley's not really knowing where it was or where it started and finished. I still don't. I think roughly it's just a big parcel of land between Broome and Darwin. I don't think boundaries really matter as it is spectacular and where do you draw the boundary? It's plenty of nothingness; but absolutely heaps of 'amazingness.' Due to the uncertainty of the Gibb River Road's condition following recent rainfalls we travelled to Fitzroy Crossing via the Great Northern Highway. We left Derby late in the afternoon following our tour of the Horizontal Falls knowing we would need an exception to our rule 'to be off the road before dusk'. We ended up driving the last hour in the dark and it was exhausting. Dropping down to about 70km per hour with our eyes scanning the sides of the road watching out for numerous wild animals including kangaroos, emus, cows and wild pigs. They were everywhere and with our stopping power dramatically reduced due to the caravan on the back it was hard work. We vowed not to do it again; but probably will. After the exhausting drive at night (and typical female behaviour) the moment I was told I couldn't drink; I desperately wanted one.  Fitzroy Crossing is a 'dry' area.

The Boab Tree is unique to the Kimberely's and are beautifully scattered along its horizon. There's something peaceful about them and we never tire of pointing them out along our journey. The kids think they look like an upside down tree. They can survive fire and flood due to their ability to capture water but often die due to lightening strikes.  They are hollow inside and were often used to house prisoners during transportation back in the olden days!

With a population of just over 1,100, about 80% of Fitzroy Crossing's population is indigenous. In 2007 a campaign by the local indigenous community resulted in a restriction of alcohol sales. Some media reports suggest that the ban has been effective with a reduction of hospital admissions, domestic violence reports and an increase in school admissions. However anecdotal evidence - speaking to the locals - suggests there is now a large black market and an increase in prostitution (getting alcohol in return for services). In addition, road accidents of young males have increased with many driving the 700km round trip to Kununurra just to buy alcohol. We witnessed two things in the days we were there.... Firstly, there didn't seem to be as many (or any) inebriated aborignals walking the streets. So to me that was a good sign. Secondly, the caravan park we stayed at stipulated that we were not allowed to drink in our caravan at the park (he he - luckily I picked up a trick I learnt from my sister - drinking wine out of a coffee cup!!) however you could drink on their premises; drinking their alcohol and if you were staying in their motel you could purchase their alcohol (with limitations) and take it back to the room. I may be a sceptic but it seems these rules benefit the venue. We stayed at the Fitzroy Crossing Caravan Park which was across the river and a little out of town and away from crime however it was emphasised to lock up everything particularly our esky. Just the week prior, a caravan was broken into and they had cut through the mesh windows to get in. It was likely they were looking for alcohol. 

Winjana Gorge - we found our first freshwater crocodiles of our trip.  

The following day we went to Winjana Gorge (7/10) which is 145km from Fitzroy Crossing on a 4WD-only road. The Gorge was a 7km easy return walk and was our first up-close experience with freshwater crocodiles. There were literally hundreds of them littered on the river banks.  The advice from locals that if they swim away from you - they are freshwater crocs; if they swim towards you - they are saltwater crocs and you are stuffed. The kids (ok, I really mean me...) were initially scared but by the end of the walk we were nearly stepping over them; singing songs to get back to the car. 

Winjana Gorge

After Winjana Gorge  we travelled to Tunnel Creek. Our indigenous tour guide did not turn up to meet us so we ended up tackling the 750meter dark tunnel full of bats and crocs on our own. Water shoes and torches were a must. It was a great walk and once again was an example of the diversity of activities we have experienced while travelling. Apparently Tunnel Creek was a hideout from police for the indigenous many years ago and a indigenous police tracker who turned against the police (or the other way around; I sometimes get confused with the small details...) was captured and killed here. 

Walking through Tunnel Creek I still I'm not sure what those piercing orange eyes in the dark that were staring back at me.  

The crew in Tunnel Creek. We turned our head torches around for the photo. Except for Tom - he wore his backwards all the way?! 

The following morning (after another night with no beer) we got up early to do the 8am Geikie Gorge boat tour. The boat tour is the best (and really only) way to experience Geikie Gorge. There is an 8am and 2pm tour. They say the afternoon tour is the best to get the true colors of the Gorge but we were keen to get on the road so did the morning one. Geikie Gorge is apparently named after an English geologist (now wouldn't he be a fun guy!!) who never ever landed on Australian soil. There is community pressure to change the name to reflect our indigenous ancestors. Makes perfect sense to me!

Geikie Gorge  

Once again the Fitzroy River was not the largest river in size but was in volume of water it has a catchment of about 90,000 square kilometres. The amount of water it has that runs through it is amazing. It had enough flow through it to fill the Sydney Harbour in 17 minutes. You can see from the pictures how high the tide rises in the wet season (up to the dark parts). But can be up to 12 metres higher. 

The crew on the boat cruise - not sure why but we are always herded to the back row. This time of the year there are not many families but rather lots of grey nomads.  

Once again, there were many friendly crocs in the Gorge. Female crocs swim away when you get close; males stay. This photo below was obviously a male as he was happy to smile at the camera.

Smile for the camera. What an arrogant git. He looks so smug, smiling to himself on a rock.  

We then travelled to Bungle Bungles or Purnululu National Park (another example of changing the name to its true heritage) . The World Heritage listed park's main feature is the Bungle Bungle Range described as black-banded beehive shaped cones. The Park has two campgrounds but you are unable to take a caravan in there so we stayed at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park (not part of the National park) at the gateway of the Park and then got up early (6:30am) to drive into the Park and spent the day exploring. The road was pretty corragated and a couple of little water crossings. It took about 90minutes to get to the entrance of the Park so it was pretty tough going but manageable. One of my most favourite things at the park was the showers with no roof. For some reason, there is nothing better than having a shower under the stars!

They say the best way to experience the Bungle Bungle's is by air. They cover such a vast area of land that makes sense. We were planning to do a helicopter ride but ran out of time. It is one of my regrets. Oh well, next time (I say that heaps).

The Bungle Bungles

Our first stop was Cathedral Gorge (7/10) it wasn't a difficult walk - took us about half an hour. At the end of the walk we arrived at an open cave with shallow pool of water. It wasn't really a swimming hole but a great place according to my kids to skim rocks. The acoustics were amazing and it known as a popular place to 'belt out a tune'. I was keen to sing a bit of Dancing Queen but the kids told me that would be "soooo embarrassing." 

Skimming rocks on Cathedral Gorge  

Cathedral Gorge

We then drove about 45 minutes to Echidna Chasm (8/10). I really liked Echidna Chasm because it was so different and featured narrow tunnels with huge walls (that's not the technical term they use in their brochures.) Once again it was an easy walk although it was on pebbles with little shade. 

A tiger lost in EchidnaChasm  

After Purnululu National Park we travelled to the well-known station El Questro (9/10). We loved loved loved El Questro. It's a working cattle station with a million hectares of cattle ground. It's on a long term lease from the Government and the land is then contracted out via pastoral leases. The new owner - who has just taken it over - is apparently going to 'rest' the land for 12 months and will receive a little payment from the Government to do so. But amongst the cattle crazing land is the El Questro Campground. It may be a little commercialised but it had an amazing bar, with a singalong around the camp fire at night and the most amazing gorges and walks. 

One of the three river crossings into El Questro (this one wasn't the worst). Although nerve wracking it was a little cool. Our 200 series was a real trooper and didn't let us down. 

The first day we walked to Emma Gorge (Emma Gorge also has accommodation; similar to El Questro but on a smaller scale). Emma Gorge was a bit of a tougher, longer walk. It took us about an hour each way and there was a bit of rambling over rocks. The 40-degree temperature and the sighting of a snake made it even more challenging. But once again the end was spectacular and being able to enjoy a swim at the end makes it so worth it. 

Walking to Emma's Gorge. It was hot and we had regular stops to dip our heads in the water.  

We play a number of games during our walks but our favourite would have to be the alphabet game where we pick a subject and go through the alphabet. We sometimes also practice our times tables (hope the kids' teachers are reading this) and sometimes we sing. We all stumble and fall at times but it is so much fun. 

One of the pool's in Emma Gorge.  

Emma's Gorge - the swim at the end makes the walk so worth it.  

Emma's Gorge.  

The following day, Nick, Bella and I did a two-hour trail horse ride leaving at 7am in the morning. It was great to see the scenery from a different perspective. 

The man from snowy river.... Sorry I meant Nick.  

The riding group, under a Boab.  

After our trail ride we rested our weary bodies in the hot springs at Zebeddee Falls. They were amazing until Matt kept dipping my head under the water - he was told apparently that the water had secret powers and could make you look younger! For those that know me know that I love my bath and is probably one of the things I have missed the most. Matt struggled to get me out and besides the frogs it felt just like home (and I was a little home sick).

A warm bath....  

The following day we walked to El Questro Gorge which was again about an hour walk there and an hour return. It was a bit more difficult but shady. You can't get it all. For some reason I was a bit stumbly and I got cuts, scratches and bruises all over me. But after a long walk we were rewarded with the most amazing water hole. 

El Questro Gorge  

The walk to El Questro Gorge  

The photo before the snake. Back in happier days.  

We had the water hole all to ourselves and were having an amazing time until a snake slithered past us..... It was the end of our relaxing swim.

The best part about El Questro was catching up with some Ballarat friends. They were doing a similar trip but went the other way so we traded notes and caught up. It was so nice to see them. Ironically our neighbours (not the Hodges) were also from Ballarat so it made me less homesick.  

The Ballarat clan - so good to see them.  But bloody hell; look at how many kids they have!!!

It was sad to say goodbye to El Questro and there was plenty more walks that we would've liked to do but we didn't have time. It was one of those moments that we wished we had another month or two....

Happy Travels

The Stevens' 

#makingmemories  

Surfing through the Horizontal Falls

Wow! What an amazing part of Australia! We had the most amazing adventure flying to the Horizontal Falls (10/10).  They are described by David Attenborough as "one of the greatest natural wonders of the world."   Horizontall Falls - or alternatively know as the Horries - are a natural phenomenon on the coast of the Kimberley region with the only way to get to them is by air or boat. We did both. We caught a flight on a seaplane from Derby and then boarded a speed boat and went through the falls.  (You can fly from either Derby or Broome but it's about $100pp cheaper from Derby needless to say why that was our option!) 

Once again Bella's smile got her the prime seat..... She sat besides the pilot chatting away for the duration of the flight.  

The Horizontal Falls are a fast moving tidal flow through two narrow gorges located in Talbot Bay. So what makes them so amazing? It's difficult to explain - particularly for a tidal novice like me - but the direction of the flow reverses with each change of tide and the tides can reach up to 12 metres. This makes for a very erratic phenomena that changes with each tide and gets to a point that it is too dangerous to pass. 

Boarding the sea plane.  

So we flew there on a sea plane which was a first experience for all of us. Each of us commented that it was a smoother landing on sea than land. It landed in the middle of Talbot Bay. We then boarded their isolated pontoon that was floating in what seemed like the end of the world. They quickly herded us onto the speed boat (there was only 12 on the tour and we were half of them!) because there is only a small window of the day, depending on the tides, that you are able to go through the falls.  

A view from the sky

The speed boat driver was very skilled and one stage he reversed us into the falls and it felt like he had us dangling on the edge knowing that if we tipped over we would've been in a giant sized washing machine. Although it could've been a good way to get rid of the red dust that seems to have encrusted itself into the creases of our ankles, knees and elbows.

A view from the speed boat

Being a small business owner, I did work out while sunning myself in Talbot Bay that there is only one tourist company that provides the service and they get 10,000 visitors each year. Based on an average of $750pp it makes for an income of $7.5m per year. Now I am sure there are expenses, but there is a tourist operator that has the monopoly and doing very well. I asked one of the workers and she said he is in his 30s (I think his father owns the planes) and yes he does very well. A good example of someone seeing a gap in a market, taking a risk and reaping the rewards. Although competition could be good in the market to bring the prices down - it's pretty expensive!

Shark feeding after lunch

After our first speed boat ride in which we drove through the falls a number of times at lightning speeds we went back to the pontoon to feed the sharks and have the best cooked barramundi for lunch. 

It was also fascinating to learn how a tourist company operates in such a isolated location. There is no road leading in or out. And they are a 45 minute flight from any civilisation (and Derby is not the most thriving city.....) The staff work for eight months straight and work on a two-week on; two day off roster. And they would put in big days as they have guests that stay overnight.  

The photo doesn't really demonstrate the real strength of the water.  

After lunch we went on an even faster speed boat to go and do the falls again. The direction had changed and they were now at their most dangerous. And I happened to witness the best hip and shoulder I have seen this season..... By Nick. To get the front seat.... But the little girl had been sitting in it all day so I felt it fair and rather than discipline him; I gave him a smile and a wink. She was a real PITA and I had felt like pushing her over all day.... 

Nick and Bella had the front row seat!  

On of the most beautiful aspect of Horizontal Falls was the location. They are located at Buccaneer Archipelago. They are amazing to see from the sea and from the sky. They are a group of islands (about 1100) off the coast of Western Australia in the Kimberley region. They are generally rocky islands with high cliffs and due to their isolation difficult to access. They are truly amazing. 

The second and most narrow gap

On our flight home we did pass Turtle Island and see a Barramundi Farm in Cone Bay. The water circles are actually cages that grow the Cone Bay Ocean Barramundi. 

It was a great day and we are really glad we got to witness this amazing spectacle. It made me feel proud to be Australian and now lucky we are to have this as part of our country. 

Happy Travels

Stevens Family x

Beautiful Broome and Cape Leveque

It was a strange feeling entering Broome; in fact I got a little emotional. It was six years ago when Matt and I visited Broome for our wedding anniversary that we decided we would do this trip around Australia. I vividly remember Matt and I sitting at a restaurant (we had even bought an Australian atlas), mapping out our itinerary and deciding that in 2016 we would travel with our family around Australia. It was not long after both our fathers had died relatively suddenly and I had just recovered from metastatic melanoma. To be honest, I think I doubted it would ever happen but it was these life-changing events that made us decide that whatever happens we will make this happen. People often ask me if my cancer diagnosis changed my life - mostly I think not. I live life exactly as I would've otherwise.  But I think there are moments when I think damn it, life's short - bugger work, bugger the mortgage and let's make this happen! And we did. It's still hard to believe that we are actually here doing it and I think every day during this trip at some stage I have looked at Matt and said: "Can you actually believe we are really here. We are really doing this." Some people say we are lucky and we know are. But.....  We've worked bloody hard for this. Everyone has a choice; if you want to make it happen you can. 

It was so good to finally arrive in Broome - it has the best sunsets that you can watch from the beach.  

Broome marked the halfway point of our journey and it was also time to take a break and have a holiday (to this point it had been hard work - I know, I know; stop with the crocodile tears!!). And this is what we did - we had a beautiful holiday in Broome. We stayed at Cable Beach Caravan Park (9/10) which had the best pool so far. So for a week we laid by the pool, spent days by the beach and went out for coffee. And of course we went to the pub to watch the footy.

We also ran Cable Beach most mornings. Besides Lake Wendouree this would have to be on of my most favourite runs. 

We also learnt about the pearling history and I dragged my family around the pearl shops with them constantly complaining about how bored they were! Mind you I had just sat in pub and watched two games of football by teams that I don't barrack for. I found my most perfect mother's day gift but regardless of my hints; I had no luck. I felt like saying to him: "Stop laughing at me every time I ask and just buy me the friggen pearl necklace." 

Cable beach is a beauty particularly at sunset. 

We also did the camels (8/10). It was a little bit more expensive to do the sunset tour but I think it was worth it. Sunset is the most beautiful time of the day in Broome and what better way to spend it but on a burbin', stinkin', double-humped fury machine. Fortunately we had the whole camel train to ourselves. The owner explained (quiet extensively) that he had problems with the brochure. After listening to the owner for 20 minutes; I think I found the problem! He was a little cray-cray (as Bella pointed out.) Regardless I was happy. It was cheaper and we had it all to ourselves!!! And we got a free pair of pearl earrings (still not the necklace). And we also got free six drinks at the beautiful Cable Beach Resort. We were that excited we ordered a beer, a wine and 4 x soft drinks. On reflection, I would've bought 5 x $12 wines and paid for 4 x $2 soft drinks...... A lesson learnt.   

Stevens' on the camel train. Tom talked the whole way telling the German backpacker who was our guide all about how Jesus travelled by camel....  And that Jesus lives in his heart. Thanks Mrs Ryan!!!

Surprisingly, riding the camels was a little therapeutic. Not so it seems for the local industry. According to the local paper there is trouble in camel paradise with one company granted a two-camel extension to its 'train' by council during peak periods when the other companies are not full..... 

Having the whole ride to ourselves meant we got plenty of photos - I think it was also the guides chance to get away from listening Tom's preaching..... 

One of our other highlights we discovered was Matso's Brewery (8/10). To be honest it wasn't anything special but it had a good feel about it and we had some really nice times there. My first time was when my family went to the movies (Broome also has an open-air movie theatre; but it was too hot) so I took the opportunity to do some work. It had good wifi and good cider. I got heaps of work done and picked the family up a little tipsy. Happy days. But, not only did it have a delicious mango beer but we discovered it was also a great place to do homework. One (or two, or three) hot afternoons, we sat for hours in the air conditioned restaurant while the kids did homework. Matt and I helped while trying out the local produce. On one occasion we had to catch a taxi home - now that's something new but I am sure the kids' teachers have done the same at some stage!! I am not sure about Matt but after four or five ciders; I was the best teacher ever!!! 

Matso's brewery  - we told Tom it was a library. 

We also went to the Gantheaume Point Lighthouse one night to watch the sunset and then travelled the back road to the wharf to Broome's best fish and chips. And they were pretty damn good (although we could've nearly missed it; it was a little hidden). As an added bonus it was cattle night at the wharf so we got to see all the cattle getting loaded onto the ships ready for export. It also meant that half the restaurant was closed as the cows had been known to drop a 'load' on you as they past by.

For the first few days the weather was perfect - if anything it was little too hot and muggy. The locals told us that the weather we were experiencing on May 1, was really April 1 weather. I guess we were fortunate to experience some wet season when Broome had about 100mm of rain over a 48-hour period when they had only had 40mm over the entire wet season! The locals were very excited.  For us (or really just me) it was a little (very) frightening as we weathered out one of the worst thunderstorms I had ever experienced in the safety of our caravan. 

Cable beach's beautiful blue sky turns grey..... The storm is coming.  

Unfortunately the rain meant that the Cape Leveque road was closed and our trip was postponed. Each day we had to wait to see whether it would open for us to get to Kooljaman - a unique wilderness style camp operated and owned by the Djarindjin and One Arm Point Aboriginal communities. Cape Leveque is on the tip of the Dampier Peninsula, 220km north of Broome.  We were desperate to get to Cape Leveque and as the days passed we began to wonder whether it was worth the hassle or the fact that we desperately wanted to get there and couldn't made it even more desirable.  

When the road finally opened we left with a bit of trepidation but lots of excitement. We quickly packed; stored our caravan at Broome (you are unable to take vans up the Cape Leveque Road). The road was relatively good and we survived. We were pretty proud to survive and enjoy our first real 4wd adventure. We were that excited we thought we would celebrate; but with the haste of packing in a hurry, and not releasing it was a 'dry' community, we had to celebrate with a Pepsi Max.

Besides the wet, slippery road we also encountered some peak hour traffic.  

After the excitement of Cape Leveque and our challenges in getting there it was a little bit disappointing but mainly due to the weather. We stay in log cabins. Which sounds romantic but it was rather just an open cabin. No walls or floors. We all had mosquito nets and I thought the lizards on the roof would scare me off sleeping but it was rather the cyclonic winds we experienced during the night. But the wind was relentless and with the kids awake (and very scared) I did not sleep a wink. In the morning we woke up and walked along the beach with the kids screaming that the sand whipping against their legs due to the wind was painful. Matt and I looked at each other and said let's get back to Broome.

Cape Leveque - once again we had the entire beach to ourselves meaning we could kick footy and cartwheel all that we liked!! 

In summary we were glad we saw Cape Leveque; even for one night. In perfect weather conditions, and if you had plenty of time, it would be a beautiful place to stay. 

But because we came home early we had one last night in Broome and we had an opportunity to say goodbye to friends.  

In Broome we made some great friends. It is one of the elements of this trip that has really surprised me particularly how quickly you connect with new people.  

Leah's 40the birthday drinks. One of my most memorable birthday parties I have been invited to! 

Our last night in Broome was a real celebration of friendship. We had our last afternoon/sunset on Cable Beach  celebrating Leah's (our new friend) 40th birthday and then walked to Zeebar with our beautiful friends the Raudys and we had a couple of champagnes. This was  a great night and for a moment I felt normal (not a travelling family pretending to be normal!)  

A birthday drink with Kate Raudey- it was so great to meet this beautiful family along the way. Great fun and company. We left them in Broome as we were going in different directions. We miss them already.  

So we left Broome with renewed energy as we head into a busy two weeks travelling through the Kimberley's. It's hard to believe that we still have so much more to look forward to. 

the Stevens' x

#makingmemories

From dry, dusty and ugly Port Hedland to 80-mile beach that has a beach that goes for miles

We arrived in Port Hedland after travelling from Kalbarri -  the red dust had well and truly encrusted itself in every part of our car, caravan and bodies. During the drive, we started to see the road trains. We passed some; some passed us. Port Hedland locals say there are 100 plus trucks on the Port Hedland-Newman Road each day.  They were big rigs and there was a constant stream of them. We were now in the heart of the mining world and about to arrive in the the largest port in Australia. We often hear about mining booms and how important the mining industry is to Australia's economy - it was great to be in a mining town to see how it operates and the impact it has not only on the community but all of Australia. We stayed at Port Hedland for only a night. It's a real ugly, dirty town but we enjoyed it. It was fascinating to learn about a town that relies on one industry. 

Port Hedland is hot and dry. Apparently it has gone more than 300 days without rain and has on average 220 sunny days a year. It is also the cyclone capital of Australia! When there is a cyclcone all the boats have to get out of the bay and harbour. Luckily there were hooks to hook our caravan on if there was a cyclone. It gave me some piece of mind - there would be nothing better than experiencing a cyclone in a caravan!

And Port Hedland has an international airport (with a population of just over 15,000 that's not bad). Some of the people we met who work in the mining industry are rostered 30 days on and 30 days off - so they live in Bali as they can fly over there cheaply on their days off. 

It's predominantly iron ore that is being shipped away and some commercial salt - apparently it is shipped overseas for commercial use (such as to put on roads that suffer from black ice!) 

The iron ore arrives by train from surrounding areas such as Newman and then shipped to China (about 90%). The trains are owned by the mining companies and travel on train tracks built by the company. (I hope this gives you an idea of the money involved in these operations). The Government can't even afford to build a train line! Each train has two locomotives and up to 250 carriages.  Apparently it takes four trains to fill a ship.

We went for lunch at a corner pub (just an ordinary pub) and during the mining boom they would charge $1000 a room per night and it was booked for months in advance. Some locals were telling us that a number of years ago a house would sell for $1 million and now they (or the banks) were selling them for $300k. There is obviously some people making lots of money and just as many losing lots of money. 

The boats in the port - the difference between a 'full' boat and and 'empty' boat and how high it sat in the water was huge.  

We did the Sea Farers tour in the morning (8/10) - inside the port their were a number of large ships that they referred to us "Gina's boats over there; Twiggy's ships over there."

At any one time there can be up to 45 ships lining up in the bay waiting to come into the port. At night time, the lights out in the ocean looked like there was another mini country offshore. 

The boats, that are predominantly from China and Indonesia, are contracted to the big companies that get priority in getting into the port. Following the mining boom, a 'freelance' boat sat in the bay for four months hoping to pick up a 'load'. After four months it did't get one so continued on to Brazil. 

You can see the iron ore being loaded into this ship!  

It takes about two weeks for them to make the return trip to China and some of the sailors (Matt told me to stop calling them Seamen) can be on a boat for up to eight months at a time - not even allowed to get off in their hometown of China. Port Hedland is one of the Ports that allows them to get off the ship through the Sea Farers service. 

We did a Sea Farers tour and went out to the boats in the bay and picked up some of the sailors which are given 'day-leave' and can come into town of the day. They take them grocery shopping and have access to computers, shopping, counselling or union support. 

The Rio Tinto site on the wharf. This is right in town. You can see the trains as the enter the wharf to load onto the ship. Most of this is now automated and managed from an air conditioned office in Perth. 

In the afternoon, we did a tour of Rio Tinto site - this was also very informative. The trains arrive from site and are automatically tipped into a conveyer belt and then taken to ships. Most of the processing is now down on site as its the noisy, dusty part which us moved away from town. Most of this part is now automated and operated from an air conditioned office in Perth. There wasn't even a train driver - and doesn't need to be. 

After a big day in Port Hedland we went to 80-mile-beach. It's an amazing beach but we were strongly recommended not to swim in it as there are lots of sharks.... I was expecting a bit of a road house or small caravan park but it was huge. It has up to 350 sites and during the peak season there is apparently caravans lining up to get in. And there is nothing nearby. They have a policy of not turning people away. Some people we met come here for three months plus a year. There is not a lot to do - except fishing. That's a lot of fishing... 

We drove the beach; but didn't go the 80-miles. The sunset was amazing. 

But for Those of you that think this is just one big holiday I spent the entire day doing washing - about eight loads of washing and hanging out and I think it was about 42 degrees with high humidity. I sweated more than I ever have in a marathon. I was finally starting to rid some of the red dirt. 

Driving on the beach was pretty cool. The kids all got a drive which they though was great.  

After a big day in Port Hedland we went to 80-mile-beach. It's an amazing beach but we were strongly recommended not to swim in it as there are lots of sharks.... I was expected a bit of a road house or small caravan park but it was huge. It has up to 350 sites and during the peak season there is apparently caravans lining up to get in. And there is nothing nearby. They have a policy of not turning people away. Some people we met come here for three months a year. There is not a lot to do - except fishing. That's a lot of fishing... 

 We drove the beach; but didn't go the 80-miles. The sunset was amazing. 

But for I spent the entire day doing washing - about eight loads of washing and hanging out and I think it was about 42 degrees with high humidity. I sweated more than I ever have in a marathon. 

A friendly grab. These guys were everywhere and looks so funny scurrying across the sand.  

But for I spent the entire day doing washing - about eight loads of washing and hanging out and I think it was about 42 degrees with high humidity. I sweated more than I ever have in a marathon. 

There were plenty of shells. Which meant no running races on the beach but plenty of shell collecting.  

80-mile-beach was a great place for us to rest and re-fuel (human petrol). While we didn't do much (unsuccessfully tried some fishing) we did spent the time catching up after a hectic week. It was a pretty good place to do it. 

Bella shell-hunting. She found some real beauties.  

While we drive around Australia; I am surprised how diverse it is. Every town does has a story and what I enjoy most is meeting and talking to the boat driver, the service station attendant and people in the towns learning about their community. 

From the Stevens'

#making memories

Karijini National Park

I can't believe we almost missed this little gem. It wasn't on our to do list. In fact, I actually had never heard of it before until Smithy, a bloke from the footy club, highly recommended it just days prior to us leaving. But we absolutely loved Karijini National Park ❤️. We embraced its attributes of no power or telephone service but plenty of deep, red soil (that managed to instil itself on and in every crook and cranny), plenty of flies and softly-scented drop toilets. 

I was nervous going to Karijini National Park (9/10) with a number of people warning me to hold onto the kids telling me it was dangerous and treacherous terrain. It's true there has been a number of instances normally due to the uneducated person making stupid decisions such as hiking during or following rain even though there are signs everywhere warning you not to. However there are a couple of stories that makes you appreciate the dangers associated with this rugged outback. In 2011 a seven-year-old boy slipped under a fence line and his father jumped to save him only to lose his own life.  The son is a paraplegic. That family was often in my thoughts as we walked. They were an ordinary family, doing what we were doing and enjoying life in this amazing place. Just another constant reminder that life is pretty short and how important it is to live life to the fullest. 

Dales Gorge - on our way down, down, down. Tom can be a little erratic while walking throwing an odd twirl or stumble in. We ensured he always had someone's hand. He amazingly walked the few hours each day without complaining. 

But Wirlankarra Yanama. Yurlu Nyinku Mira Yurndarirda which means "Go with a clear, open and accepting spirit and the country will not do you badly."

There are only two campgounds in Karijini - Eco Resort and Dales Campground. We stayed at Dales Campground. It's operated by volunteers and has large, sparsely spread-out sites giving you the feeling that you are in the middle of nowhere. And there is absolutely nothing else - no shops, no bread, no power and no milk (we discovered after finishing ours on day one) .  It's therefore important to ensure you have enough food, water and beer to get you through your visit. There is a water tank but it is not drinking water and it is about 7km from the campground - oh and you have to navigate a hive of wasps to turn the tap on. Strangely enough that was always my job (Matt was obviously scared!)

We spent the three days in Karijini walking gorges and swimming in water holes. And every time you felt you had found such a beautiful gorge or watering hole there would be another one just as magnificent. You simply couldn't tire of it. There was literally a hidden oasis around every corner.  (The downside being the 50 plus kms of red dirt between every corner). 

What a way to wake up each morning - we slept with all windows opened and would fall to sleep watching the stars and wake to this each morning.  

We slept with the windows open and woke with the sun shining through out windows (windows is a bit posh when it was really only fly screens.)

Kermit's Pool - not sure of the name; maybe because it's a little green. We purchased some water shoes while we're snorkelling in Coral Bay and they have been really handy! They were needed for this trek as parts were through water on sharp stones. 

On the first day we walked just over 10 km around Dales Gorge. We followed the rim of the gorge between Circular Pool and Fortescue Falls and then we swam in Fern Pool which had a waterfall that acted as a shower. Surprisingly the water was rather warm and once you ignored the fish nibbling on your toes it was amazing (and our shower for the day). That afternoon after a meal of two-minute noodles and zooper doopers we went to Oxers Lookout and Joffre Lookout. We collapsed into bed after some fierce rounds of Uno at about 7:30pm.  With a geography and  outdoor education teacher accompanying us (the Raudys - our friends we have met on the way), the kids got the added bonus of an invaluable lesson on the way.

Our morning shower.... 

Dayles Gorge - it was a beautiful day for a stroll. 

The next day we drove 100km on a mostly unsealed road to Hammersley Gorge - we swam at the pool and after having a magnificent couple of hours we decided to venture over the waterfall and found a secret little pool (I don't think it had a name.) That was probably my highlight. It was a tiny albeit very deep pool with a trickling waterfall hidden away. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo as we had to swim and climb to get there so my camera was left at camp.

Kermit's pool - after the spider walk we relaxed and had the pool to ourselves. Our own little oasis. 

After a lunch of sausages in bread - and as we were on bread rations the kids had to have two sausages In one piece of bread - we continued onto Hancock Gorge and we did the spider walk. This was a class 5 walk (the hardest). It wasn't very long but a bit tricky in areas. Tom managed it well with a bit of help. At times we were battling, passing him along to ensure he was ok while all Tom was worried about was the next rock to collect....  

Along the track... the colours were magnificent. 

Surprisingly, after all the magnificent beaches the kids absolutely loved Karijini and voted it the best so far. It was also good to be off social media for three days although I had moments of panic that if anything happened back home nobody could contact us.  

We have left Karijini and will make away back to the coast!

Hammersley Gorge - Bella and Ella swam right to the edge - no wonder we were asleep by 7:30pm. 

Looks like a pretty good place for a dip! 

Walk break! 

Following the path.  

Kalbarri - Denham - Monkey Mia

We left Perth and drove 590km to the seaside town of Kalbarri which is midway along Australia's Coral Coast. The town is located at the mouth of the Murchison River. We stayed at the Murchison Caravan Park which was right on the beach (although we were located in the back corner; I think when you book in with four children they often put you in the furtherest spot away!). 

We ended up leaving Perth later than expected due to a surprise visit from a friend from home who was in Perth for work. We have decided that on big travel days, we really need to get away by 8:30am. It's our preference to finish our daily driving by no later than 4pm. It's not ideal driving on dusk with the threat of kangaroos and other wildlife and also arriving at a location at dinner time is an awful time to unpack with four hungry children and two cranky parents. (As you can probably guess, this is based on previous experiences)!

A few hours into our drive it became evident that we were starting to get very isolated. As I left Perth, I began my normal routine to find a coffee. I placed $10 on the dashboard and said to Matt as soon as we see a coffee shop; here's my money and I am ready to jump out and get one. Well the $10 should've stayed there all day. There is not much north of Perth. Each little town (aka petrol station/roadhouse on the side of the road) we drove through I searched for a coffee but to no avail. Nothing. No coffee for eight hours. Until I read a sign that said..."Real coffee beans".  I was so excited and made Matt stop so I could run inside and order my coffee. My excitement simmered when I saw the barista (I'm using that term very loosely) make it with powdered milk....At this stage I couldn't say no and kept the coffee walked outside and tipped it out (with 'almost' tears in my eyes...)

After arriving late (with still no coffee) we unpacked, had a 'get at it' and went to bed. In the morning we left for a run and were inundated with bugs, bugs and more bugs so much so, we had to abandon the run!  I was starting to get nervous on whether I would enjoy Kalbarri fortunately the day improved after we toured Coastal Cliffs and Kalbarri National Park. 

In the morning we visited the Coastal Cliffs (6/10) and did the 1.2km return Natural Bridge Walk and then we went for a swim at Blue Holes. It was great after the drizzly weather in Perth to finally hit the beach. 

Coastal Cliffs at Kalbarri - it was getting hot (and the flies.....)

After lunch we went to Kalbarri National Park - driving through the red sand with our 4x4 Landcruiser 2000 series car ( I have no idea what that means but I have had two old men comment to me about my car - they seemed impressed so I have used the terminology sense). We did the Nature's Window (7.5/10) which was great and the walk was better. It was only about a 1.5km trek but it was over/under rocks. There looked to be a couple of good hikes in the region and for a moment (a very fleeting one) I thought it would be great if we didn't have the kids and could do the walks!

Nature's window... 

On our return we hired a paddle board (our family's new hobby) and spent the remainder of the day at the Kalbarri Beach.  

The day was masked somewhat with a little incident. Not mentioning any names (Matt) but someone flooded the caravan and we had no power..... fortunately the power returned just over 24 hours later.

The highlight of the night was attending the Rainbow Theatre, an outdoor theatre set amongst the Coastal Cliffs.  We watched Kung Fu Panda 3. There's nothing more entertaining than an outdoor movie in the middle of nowhere listening to the kids giggling. 

After our two nights in Kalbarri we drove 375km to Shark Bay (Denham). We thought we had 590km to drive so we got up early and set off only to realise it was only 375km. It was a pleasant surprise. Shark Bay satisfies all four criteria and is listed as a world heritage area. On our way to Shark Bay we stopped at Hamelin Pool (6/10) to see the oldest living organism - the stromatolites. Thomas was a bit disappointed as he was expecting dinosaurs. 

Hamelin Pool at Shark Bay 

We wanted to stay in Monkey Mia but it was all booked out due to WA school holidays. So we stayed 20km down the road at Denham. People say Denham is better as it is cheaper and still close to the Dolphins and that Monkey Mia is too commercialised however I would've liked to have stayed at Monkey Mia - I thought it was great. The following morning we got up early to see/feed the dolphins at Monkey Mia.  Feeding the dolphins was a great experience (9/10). We fed the dolphins after they swam about an arms length from us. Every person who got picked was able to bring a friend. Bella got picked (after standing up the front with the biggest smile) and once picked said: "but I have three friends and they are my brothers and I can't pick one." They therefore all got to go - who could say no to that?? The dolphins, although not trained, swim in each day for a free, easy feed anytime between 7:30am and 11am. Apparently they have only missed five days in the last seven years. 

Bella and her three friends. 

After the dolphin feed we went on a cruise with Acriscrat 2 (8/10) and had a great day. We weren't expecting to go on a cruise but it looked so good as it sailed in and we had a great day. It was so calm on Shark Bay (but beneath the surface is a different story).

We first went out to tour Blue Lagoon Pearls. The pearl industry is fascinating with the owner telling us that just over five years ago the bay just died overnight and he lost everything. 

Blue Lagoon Pearls 

After the tour of the Pearl Farm we went on the search for the mysterious Dugongs - and we found them! They are funny, ugly little creatures as they pop their heads up every minute or so for a breath as they munch away at the seaweed they lies on the ocean floor. They are not as social as dolphins and pretty much just act like teenagers - unsociable creatures that eat and sleep all day. They are hunted by sharks and therefore need to be alert so sleep only a minute at a time. They turn half the brain off and take a nap (and remember to breath) and then they swap over and let the other side of the brain sleep. Half a brain at a time. If I was a dugong it would annoy the shit out of me just as it did when I was breastfeeding never knowing what side I was up to!

For our boat tour we chose Aristocrat 2 (which was a little bit more expensive) because of the option to hang off the back of the boat in a net (not sure if it has an appropriate name.) And it was well worth the extra. We all had a great fun hanging off the back (although I recommend not wearing bikinis). Bella and I had an amazing moment near the end when it was really only the two of us and there were dolphins swimming alongside us. Besides the fear of getting a dolphin fin up my bottom it was really quite soothing.

Tom clinging on; Nick playing the normal protective brother and Bella..... well what better time than to take a selfie!

Next stop is Ningaloo Bay Reef which includes Carnarvon, Coral Bay and Exmouth... 

From the Stevens' x  

#makingmemories

Busselton - Brunbury - Perth

On our way to Perth we stopped at Busselton and Bunbury -  both fantastic places centred on water/beach. Although Margaret River was great its main tourist attraction is its wineries.  And the reality is that with four children you are not going to be visiting many wineries!! (I bartered for two and it was painful.....) On reflection, based on the kids' needs, I think Busselton and Bunbury would've been better alternatives.

We had a great time at the Busselton Jetty which for some reason had a really good feel about it - it may have just been because we were really in good moods. The Jetty is 1.9km; it's so long you can catch a train to the end. We decided against the train but rather walked the jetty. I'm glad we did because the people and activities we met on the way was worth it. Halfway down we (some of us) decided to jump off with some of us still clothed! This has become one of the unexpectant highlights of the trip so far. There were some older teenagers that were jumping off - some were; some were too scared! We watched them for a bit until Nick turns to his dad and says I will if you will. Boys will be boys and while they were competing over who did the biggest bomb, Bella whipped off her top and jumped in - to the delight on onlookers. 

The #bigbombs at Bussleton Jetty. "I'll jump if you jump." The jetty was actually a lot higher than the picture shows!

Showing the boys how to do it #jump like a girl!

We arrived in Perth and it was good to know we were going to be in the one spot for five days. We had booked the car in for a service so we needed to stay that length of time.  The first day in Perth all I did was wash clothes (felt like home....). It was drizzling with rain so I ended up spending over $40 at the laundry - that's two bottles of wine (or a meal for the children).

At Perth we stayed at Karrinyup Waters Resort. The Park was great in that it had good facilities but for us, it was in a dreadful location. We have tried to determine what's better - a great park with good facilities or a so-so park in a great location. We have found that although it's important to listen to people's advice; we must not get caught up feeling like we 'must' do what people tell us to.  Firstly it is impossible for us to do everything we are told is 'not to be missed' and secondly people's interests are different from ours. Our decision to choose this park is a good example. It was highly recommended to us by two elderly couples but it didn't tick any of our boxes. Although the park was great and had great facilities it was in the middle of absolutely nowhere. We like to be able to get up in the morning and go for a run along a track or beach or walk to a coffee shop (if there is one!). However we were in the middle of a cold, drab residential area that took us nearly 20 minutes to drive to a supermarket.  

Little Creatures Brewery.... The Cider magically kept disappearing..... 

The Big Wheel in Fremantle

While in Perth we spent a day in Fremantle. Although I still have no feelings for the Dockers; Ioved Fremantle. I wished we had looked for a park near Fremantle.  We went to Little Creatures Brewery for lunch which had a great atmosphere. It was also nice to go 'out' as most of our meals (almost all) to this point had been on the BBQ. 

We drove from Hillary's Beach to Cottesloe Beach and it would have been great to have had the sun shining so we could have enjoyed the beaches.

It was so good to have some "girl-time"

While we were in Fremantle we caught up with some old friends. And Matt and I both admitted we were a little excited to have other people to talk to. Poor Liv and Mick - I think we may have over powered them with our excitement! But not as excited as Will as he had three new mates to play with ALL his age.  They have triplets - and their parents are absolutely troopers! It was fun (a little too fun) to catch up for a few drinks and pretend that we were normal and not living out of caravan. I actually put lipstick on!! (Maybe it was the fumes of the lipstick that made me giggly tiddly). We also went to their house for dinner the following night for a home cooked meal - that was even better!

Having a blast - the big derby (apparently). #spasessionupmysleeve

And of course one of the main reasons we stayed in Perth was for the AFL football derby! We managed (whoop whoop) to get tickets to this sold out game. It poured rain (whoop whoop) and probably two of my worst teams were playing (double, whoop whoop). But this holiday isn't about me and I think I now have a day spa visit up my sleeve to be used at a later date!

Our stay in Perth was great in that it was relaxing and allowed us to 're-charge' (meaning we washed our clothes and did groceries)  Due to the inclement weather, we didn't get to enjoy the beautiful beaches. 

Next stop Kalbarri and Shark Bay (Monkey Mia).

The Stevens' x

#makingmemories

Decided to make some friends and support the locals.  Doesn't look like they made many friends only because we had to get there so bloody early! 

Esperance - Albany - Margaret River

For the record, I have clipped my heal on the caravan step 36 times since we left. I swear every time and my heal is constantly bruised. As Matt regular reminds me; the step is in the same place as yesterday! Although having the time of my life; it is painful at times!

We were really looking forward to reaching Esperance and relaxing for a couple of days after a couple of big days on the road.  In Esperance we stayed in a quaint, little caravan park Bathers Paradise Caravan Park on the outskirts of town but still on the coast. It was a great park and while not the most popular we were attracted to the park based on WikiCamps comments which praised the staff and the 'feel' for the park. We had some caravan/hose problems but found a friendly neighbour who spent the morning under our van and fixed it for the cost of a Mars Bar. I'm sure Matt, being so handy, would've handled it on his own but felt the desire to entertain his elderly neighbour. And we finally had television reception discovering after almost 10 days on the road that you need to switch the aerial on! We took it easy in the morning and then travelled to Cape LeGrand and spent the afternoon kicking the footy (again) and swimming at Lucky Bay - one of the most amazing, secluded beaches. We were going to take the 1.5km hike up the Cape LeGrand Peak but when we arrived Tom informed us he had forgotten his shoes! 

Kicking footy at Lucky Bay - Nick proudly wearing an old James Frawley jumper - I guess he was lucky last year! 

Cape LeGrand National Park is just over 50km from Esperance and features rugged coasts and white sandy beaches. You could easily get lost wandering around the park exploring the little coves and beaches. We spent a lot of time at Lucky Bay (8/10) and then toured Hellfire Bay (5/10) and the Whistling Rocks at Thistle Cove. You can stay at Cape LeGrand but it's our understanding that the parks are quiet small and you have to get in early to get a spot. 

At Lucky Bay - it had the whitest sand, kangaroos and a unique coffee van on the beach. Apparently the kangaroos come on the beach to eat the sea weed.  

We left Esperance and drove 480km to Albany. Another relatively big drive. After settling in to the Big 4 Middleton beach, we spent the following morning at the National ANZAC Centre (8/10) which was fantastic - a definite highlight of the trip so far.  Each of us received a card/profile of a war veteran and you followed their story around as you travelled through the centre. It was a great morning with the kids and was definitely a good school history lesson. Because of the competitive nature of our family we played a game based on the profile of the card we were given. The person who had the ANZAC who died had to sit in the back back boot and cook dinner. Sorry Dad!  

Ready, aim and fire. At the amazing Anzac memorial such an interactive memorial that catered for all ages.  

After touring we went to Two Peoples Bay. Just when we thought we had found our perfect beach; we found an even better one Littles Beach (9/10). It was amazing and we spent a good couple of hours playing and swimming until it started drizzling with rain. 

Littles beach in Two Peoples Bay is our most favourite beach so far! 

Brotherly love at Littles Beach  

We left Albany and travelled 400km to Margaret River stopping on the way to visit the Denmark Chocolate Factory (not quite Mars Chocolate but very enjoyable and fascinating to see the chocolatier at work) and to walk the Tree Top Walk (7/10) in the Valley of the Giants.  However not everyone completed the walk.......The Tree Top walk is a 600 metre walk reaching up to 40 metres high. Matt navigated the entire 600 metres without letting go. 

Now I know you will think that's Tom in the front but it's actually Oliver Queen (arrow). Nick has knocked off three seasons since we left Ballarat and Tom has a new super hero.  

At the Tree Top Walk, Tom had absolutely no fear; ran through the whole trek without hanging on. There was a rumour that Matt let go for a second but there's no evidence to verify that.... 

Post Tree Top Walk the nerves had  calmed and everyone was happy to pose for a photo! 

We toured the Valley of Giants which had a whole lot of hollow trees. I couldn't understand if these trees were stable..... There didn't seem to much left of them allowing them to stand. 

The trees were huge! 

Tom very rarely whinges about tired legs keeping up with the rest of the family. But when he does this is where we normally find him.  #brotherlylove

At Margaret River we stayed at the Margaret River Tourist Park which was a great location but it didn't have a good feel about it. It's interesting trying to determine what makes a good park and we have been caught listening to people and taking their advice when they do not necessarily look for the same things as us. While at Margaret River we happened to stumble on the Margaret River Surf Pro and spent the morning watching the professionals.

At the Margaret River Surf Pro - we were tempted to join them but thought we would just get in the way

On the second day at Margaret River we had a sick child with gastro (it was always going to happen). However it did not stop us playing tourists and we travelled around with one of us staying in the car with Tom while the other toured with the rest of the family. We went to Cape Leeuwin in Augusta which has Australia's tallest mainland lighthouse situated at the most south westerly tip of Australia where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet.

Smile! 

Following Augusta we toured some underground caves which the kids found interesting - and it was also a bit of a workout with a number of stairs.....

The drive from Margaret River to Port Augusta - amongst the spewing and pooing - was a little bit more exciting and attractive than the Nullabor! 

Are they stalactites or stalagmites??? 

Anyway we are off to Perth for a five nights - it's been hectic so it will be nice to hang around and maybe I can start reading one of the 13 books I bought..... 

The Stevens x

#makingmemories  

Conquering the Nullabor

We have conquered the Nullabor! And we are still alive and are still all friends. And it was exactly how I thought it would be - bloody boring!  

Once again, I was in charge of directions and I can proudly say that we did not get lost! (it's pretty easy - drive straight for hundreds of miles. Do not turn left or right). The only thing we did lose was two teeth! And pleased to say that the tooth fairy found us on the Nullabor even though he/she found it difficult to part with my washing machine/clothes dryer gold coins.

Tom lost two teeth on the Nullabor. We think he was so bored, he wobbled them until they fell out

We started playing eye spy but quickly realised that there was not a lot to spy... So that game lasted 30 seconds into a 15-hour drive. Bella then attempted to teach the boys the macarena.

After leaving Ceduna we were initially planning on staying 493km away in Eucla. Fortunately the night before I was on WikiCamps (my new favourite app) and was reading comments and luckily I noticed that the Eucla Caravan Park has had no power for the past five months. We then decided to stay the night at Border Village but we drove straight past the roadside caravan park without seeing it (which may demonstrate the size of the park).

We therefore had to travel a further 176km to the next caravan park. We did buy petrol at Border Village (and still didn't see the caravan park) and paid $1.65 per litre which was significantly more expensive than 65km down the road at Mundrabilla at $1.43per litre. My other favourite app which tells you petrol prices in the neighbouring area - Petrol Watch - is great but not much good in the Nullabor with no telephone service!

So our night at the Nullabor was spent in Madura with the noise of the power generator draining out the tranquil sounds that make staying in the outback unique.  It cost us $25 for a family of six and apparently there was hot water in the showers however I did not meet anyone who experienced a hot shower. The amenities were very basic and we decided to skip showering the children. We had a lovely night and there was something special eating a sausage in bread, in the middle of nowhere waiting for the tooth fairy.  

Yep, that was exciting! 

Before tackling the Nullabor it's important to plan your food particularly because you are not able to take any fruit, vegetables and honey across the border.  I had lunch and snacks planned for the first day and we had sausages in bread for dinner (very creative). We bought half a loaf of frozen break for almost $5 and was told at most places to ignore the use-by-date for dairy products as most of them had been frozen. While I tried, I did not find a skinny latte and freshly made raspberry and white chocolate muffin.

Bella at the Great Australian Bight

One of the highlights of our trip was our visit to the Great Australian Bight. It had an entry fee of $7pp (or $14 for family; kids are free). While not the most spectactular shoreline, it was good to be standing on the edge of Australia and was great value for money. Just important as the places you see are the people you meet. The managers (a middle-aged couple) at the Great Australian Bight were fascinating to talk to. Their nearest neighbours were hours away.  At one stage they did not leave the property for eight months with deliveries arriving every Friday night. It's just the two of them so they are admissions, shopkeeper, cleaner, tourist guide and entertainers. 

The big bight

Matt and I definitely bonded even though he wore the same pair of shorts for eight days and won't sing the boy parts to the Meatloaf duets. 

We were going to stay in Norseman but stopped for a break and decided we would drive another 200km to get to Esperance. It was a good decision as Esperance is a beautiful place to relax  after two big days on the road. 

The kids (and me) were fascinated with these golden trees

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Streaky Bay

We had an amazing day in Streaky Bay today - we decided to spend the day in Streaky Bay before driving the 110 km to Ceduna (not sure what it is famous for yet but will keep you posted....) We stayed at the Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park (8.5/10) which was right on the beach. Last night we played the obligatory beach running races and fortunately some of our grey nomad friends took it amongst themselves to be the starting gun and the judges allowing Matt and I to enjoy a drink. The same friends decided the boys had too much energy and woke them early this morning to take them fishing for scallops.

Last night's beach running races. They all had a go at winning and cheating! (And falling) 

This morning we walked on the pier and meet our first 'friends'. A Melbourne family taking a similar trek. We discovered we have booked into similar places at similar times so look forward to catching up with them again. They have children similar ages to Bella and Will who love handstanding and football - perfect matches all around.

Our own private beach - Hallys beach...There was literally no-one for miles.

We then travelled to Hallys Beach about 10km from the park. Tom tells us is where Australia broke away from the rest of the world back when there were dinosaurs! We think he may be right. 

Where Australia broke away from the rest of world - Cape Bauer.  (and yep Tom's in just his jocks. I need to do some washing!) 

We had a very 'family' day today and also had an IT-free day (While travelling in the car, the IT has been a wonderful friend). However albeit just a short drive it was blissful listening to the kids in the back of the car making up their own (little bit wierd) games! 

Our stairway to our afternoon paradise. We never saw another person and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the beach. 

Tonight we are in Ceduna.  We are having an early dinner - Spaghetti Bol cooked in the thermomix (with hundreds of hidden vegetables.) Tomorrow we have a big day driving so plan an early start to arrive in Eucla. 

And I have my first confession (of many). We are staying at the Shelley Beach Caravan Park - it's about 12km from town. Like usual, when I booked in for four kids I was asked if we wanted a key to the family bathroom. Although my kids are old enough to shower themselves I have learnt to say yes. I have figured that we have to pay more than others so we may as well take the perks. So tonight, in our very isolated, probably two-star caravan park I discovered a very clean, modern, unused bath. For those that know me well know how much I love my bath. So I took my book, my special family key and amongst the dust and dirt enjoyed my first (and most likely only) outback bath. Total bliss (until Bella knocked on the door...)

From the Stevens x

#makingmemories

Adelaide to Port Augusta to Streaky Bay

Day 4 - Day 5

We left Adelaide on Monday and drove 322km to Port Augusta. Port Augusta is a small town in the middle of.... well nowhere. We spent some time trying to determine what Port Augusta is famous for (we still don't really know....) Matt has a theory that every town has to be famous for something and as we enter a town he says: "I wonder what this town is famous for..." (Like every, single time). Nick has started googling in advance; tying to provide him with the answer before he asks the question. I think Matt needs to accept that towns such as Iron Knob, Poochera,  Koongawa and Yaninee are just towns and they are famous for absolutely nothing. And every now and then you came across a treasure like Kimba which is famous for the big galah. 

The Port Augusta caravan park was on a bed of rocks but good. We toured the Port Augusta Museum (5/10) and also the Royal Doctors Flying Services (8/10). The SA headquarters is based in Port Augusta. They have three planes (valued at $6m) with another five in Adelaide doing up to 25 'transports' a day. It demonstrated how important this service is to rural Australia more so when were driving down a long stretch of road in the middle of nowhere. 

Following Port Augusta we drove 400km to Streaky Bay which we love! Our campsite is right on the beach and we have had a lovely evening hanging by the beach. The weather was perfect and the kids spent the evening doing running races up and down the beach. Matt says Streaky Bay is famous because at night people streak along the bay.... 

We have a new rule (I make the rules). If you are singing along to a song you must at least know two full sentences of the chorus in order to join in.... There is to be no more: "You've go to mumble mumble roll them. Mumble mumble walk away or.... run." There are to be no more mumbles. (And I am not talking about Matt, there is no way he wouldn't know all the words to a song...) 

Tomorrow's plan is to take the small drive to Ceduna (112Km) after spending the day in Streaky Bay. We have a few big days of driving ahead of us before we get to the West Coast. As long as we all sing, and not mumble we shall be fine..... 

Love the Stevens' x

#making memories

The crew x

Streaky Bay

There's nothing more fun than running races on the beach