It was great to get to Darwin so we could have a rest. When you go hard, like we tend to do, it seems every three to four weeks we all fall in a hole and need a few days were we sleep in, swim and don't do much. And Darwin seemed like a pretty good place to do not much. It was also exciting to reach Darwin as mum was coming to meet us (and spend some time travelling from Darwin to Uluru). I'm not sure when she agreed to tour with us that she realised she would be either in the back of a van or the back of a car with four (sometimes feral) children.....
But before arriving in Darwin we had a stopover in Katherine. We didn't plan on doing much other than visit the Tourist Information Centre to gain an insight into Kakadu National Park and what we could do in Katherine on our return visit in a week or so.
However as we were leaving the Information Centre the Katherine Outback Experience (9.5/10) brochure caught our eye and thought it wouldn't be bad to spend a night learning more about the outback...Katherine style. And what an experience it was. I think it was so enjoyable because it was so not expected. But it (he) was hilarious. It is operated by Tom Curtain and his lovely girlfriend and it's a sort of musical, horse riding, animal tricks type of show.
Tom Curtain - he was such an entertainer just by being himself.
In Darwin we stayed at FreeSpirit Caravan Park (8/10) which was great. It had a fantastic pool with an attached bar/bistro - always a bonus. It's rather therapeutic sipping on a cocktail while watching the kids swim. The weather was still 'unseasonable' hot according to the locals. And I took the opportunity to catch up on my washing although it was $5 per load (the most expensive one so far). I was becoming one of those mothers that would fold a dirty T-shirt and say: "you'll get another day out of that." While in Darwin we spent a bit of time at the Waterfront playing in the wave pool and the man-made beach, drinking coffee (which it felt like I hadn't had one for weeks) and trying out the inflatable world out the middle of the water..... My advice would be to any female to wear shorts. There is nothing attractive about a 40year old in bathers hitching her leg over or skidding along (or both at the same time) an inflatable wall or log (or both at the same time.)
Inflatable World (otherwise know as wedgie-world)
We also went to the Darwin Museum which housed a section on Cyclone Tracy and the Bombing of Darwin Museum - I am not sure words can truly describe how we felt at both places. They are probably two of the most significant events in Australia's history and both occurred in Darwin. The Cyclone Tracey Museum was free and the WWII bombings had a relatively small fee attached.
On Christmas Eve 1974, Cyclone Tracy, a tropical cyclone, devastated the city of Darwin. It is the most compact cyclone or equivalent-strengthe hurricane on record in the Australian Basin. It was quite mind blowing to see the impact it had on the city.
The bombing of Darwin, also known as the Battle of Darwin, on 19 February 1942 was the largest single attack ever mounted by a foreign power on Australia.
I don't think I realised how devastating they both were.
We also did the fish feeding, wandered through the art galleries and had the perfect trifecta night in that everyone was happy :). We went to a nice pub at the Waterfront - the football was on for the big boys, there was live music for Bella and I and Tom had keno; his favourite game. (but before you ring human services we don't actually allow him to place monetary bets).
Our perfect night - music, footy and keno.
We spent a day at Litchfield National Park (9/10). We were initially going to go and stay for a night but decided to remain in Darwin and travel out for the day. We are glad we did. If we had more time (we say this 100s a times per day) we would've but we found we were able to extensively explore Litchfield National Park in a day and it is really nice not to have to worry about the caravan attached.
Berry Springs - our morning shower (although it's a little odd that Matt is showering with his Mother-in-law
At Litchfield National Park we went to Berry Springs for our morning shower. There are three pools to choose from and we swam in all three. We had it practically to ourselves so it was a great way to start the day. We then went to Florence Falls and Wangi Falls. Both were great and easy to access (compared to our previous treks). This is a great park to do if you are an elderly couple or have young kids.
About to jump into Wangi Falls - the water was beautiful
Florence Falls
We returned home and had our last supper with are travelling companions the Neagles. We were very well behaved this time and did not get told off by the neighbours :) We miss them already.
On our way to Kakadu National Park (8/10) we stopped at the obligatory jumping crocs tour - Spectacular Crocs (the original). It's a good 'show' to see; those salties are massive creatures. People had said to us that the locals were not too impressed about the jumping crocs show as it teaches crocs to jump and it's ok when it's behind the safety of the tour boat but not when you are in a tinny fishing for Barramundi. The tour was delayed for a few minutes while they caught the two snakes that had crept onto the boat during the night. So I spent one eye on the crocodiles and one eye scanning the boat. If only I knew then what was to come in Kakadu with wild animals....
Henry the jumping croc..... He tried to catch me but I was too fast (they can travel 40km/hour underwater)
Kakadu has been on my list of things to do for some years and I was a little disappointed in that it didn't have the spectactular scenery that I had envisaged or that we had seen at other parts of Australia. In addition, the walking tracks and some of the tourist attractions - particular the smaller ones - were poorly marked and explained. We stayed at Cooinda Lodge which is sort of in the centre of the Park so had good access to most things. It also had a bar that made good coffee, a great swimming pool and cane toads. Did I say cane toads??? We had seen some in Lake Argyle but not in the vast amount that were in Kakadu. I was initially a little freaked out but by the end I was ignorant to the crunching sounds under my feet as I walked.
On the first sleepless night, I quickly discovered we were in the land of wild animals and mosquitos (mosquitos and more mosquitoes). After a while I got used to the clicking of the cane toads and the howling of the dingos but I woke with a fright (and I woke Matt too) at the sound of a wild pig outside my window. Just when I thought I wouldn't go back to sleep I was awoken by a herd of wild horses that had surrounded our caravan. Not that I thought they would enter the caravan but I thought they would jump on the tent that Nick was sleeping in..... I woke Matt and told him he had to do something. He Reluctantly crept out and put an outdoor chair at the door of the tent?! Not sure whether he thought anything wild would take a seat before eating our child in the tent... Needless to say, Nick a typical teenager slept through the circus while I lay awake for the night and watched the door of his tent.
So once daylight hit and we had a bit of a laugh I was sort of ok about the wild horses and pigs but once again I was freaked out when there was a girl in reception waiting for an ambulance because she had been bitten by a snake.
So we were encouraged by the Park Rangers to embrace Kakadu but I was embracing it ok from the inside of my caravan.... did I mention mosquitos??
Pitt stop.... I think they keep each other going with mum thinking: if a 6yo can do it; I can.
We toured the main town of Jabiru (it didn't take long) and then watched the sunset at Ubirr. It was amazing giving you a 180 degree view of Kakadu. I was expecting more jungle-type vegetation however it was more baron - but a very pretty baron. It was about a 30 minute walk with the last 10minutes quite challenging. But the view was spectacular and it was a perfect way to end another day.
Ubirr - so tranquil and the serenity...... We were talking about footy!
Watching the sunset. What an amazing way to finish the day.
The following morning we did a walking tour with a fantastic Park Ranger - Christian at Nourlangie (check him out if you ever go to Kakadu). He is the first person who has provided me a with an honest explanation of the indigenous culture. He really tried to explain the complex communities in which the indigenous communities operate. (i.e.: who can marry/look at who, brothers/sisters). I could've listened to him for hours but after 90 minutes the kids were getting a bit tetchy so we moved on.
We then went to Maguk which was about 50km from Cooinda Lodge. It was a two-hour return walk with an amazing waterfall at the end.
Maguk - Bella diving head first (through a school of fish)
That night we did the sunset yellow water cruise. It was good but it was probably focused a little bit too much on birds. And as Will said half an hour into the tour - "I'm hungry and I don't even like birds." Another lesson I have learnt is how dorky bird watches are..... I found them more entertaining to watch than the birds with their high pants, binoculars and bird encyclopedias.... they are one crazy breed.
yellow waters cruise. I had to take a photo of a bird. One guy took 100 photos of just one bird!
The sunset on the yellow waters cruise.
On the way out of Kakudu (heading towards Alice Springs) we went to Gunlom which once again was another two-hour return, steep walk to an amazing waterfall and swimming hole. The most entertaining adventure of the day however was watching my 'so not a mechanic' husband help two asian tourists whose car had broken down. They were blocking our path and we were on a tight timeframe. So I watched Matt storm out of the car fill their overheated radiator with their drinking water. The car started; he turned them around and told them to find a tree and read a book and wait for it to cool. Needless to say we saw the broken down car on the side of the road about 50km down the road on our way out of the Park. For those concerned for the safety of the two girls...they weren't with the car so we presume they got a lift to Jabiru...or that's what we are hoping.
Gunlon Falls - another big hike and swim.
36 degrees plus high humidity meant we were all in for a dip.
Stop the press.... A new fashion trend. Runners + skirt = skunners.
Kakadu - or Kathmandu as Tom calls it - covers nearly 20,000 kilometres so the distance between tourist attractions is vast. I wish we had more time (again). Another night would have been great. Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls were still closed from the wet season so we will have to see that next time too.
We then travelled to Edith Falls. There was a bottom pool (which we left Nana and the two younger boys at) while the others strided to the top pool. Once again it was amazing and we ran into another 'Ballaratarian.' We seemed to have done lots of walking and waterhole swimming on the last leg of our holiday. It's not for everyone but it is what we like to do. We never seem to tire of them because each one is so unique and the reward is a swim after a mostly challenging hike.
Edith falls
We arrived later in the day at Nitmiluk National Park (otherwise known as Katherine Gorge) just in time for a splash and relax in the pool! We got up the next morning and did a 7am boat cruise on Katherine Gorge. That was the best way, and only way other than by helicopter, to experience Katherine Gorge. There was something so peaceful and majestic about Katherine Gorge - I can't quite describe it but I had a real connection to the land (sounds weird; I know....)
Katherine Gorge.
Katherine Gorge.
We are on our way to Matauranka and Bitter Springs and we are looking forward to relaxing our aching bodies in the thermal springs.
Happy travels
Stevens Family x
#makingmemories